Ramadan revisited

We are one week into the Islamic holy fasting month of Ramadan, when Muslims refrain from eating and drinking between sunrise and sunset. They therefore have to wake early to pray, eat and drink before the sun rises, and then wait 12 hours before they can even drink a glass of water again. Frankly I don't know how they do it. They tell me that they are so used to fasting one month every year since childhood that it isn't as great a hardship as we'd imagine. Although, I have noticed they are VERY eager to drink and eat as soon as the mosque announces that it is time at the end of the day.

The first night of Ramadan we were awoken at 2 a.m. by drumming coming from the street in front of our house. Fortunately we were warned this would happen. Evidently people came around drumming the first few nights to help wake people up in time to cook, eat, drink, and pray. We were quite worried because we find this neighborhood to be pretty noisy, and were afraid the drumming would be intolerably loud and would go on and on. We're already being woken up enough with an infant in the house, we don't need any more disturbances! Fortunately, even though the drumming woke us up, it didn't keep us up and honestly the sound of drumming reminded me of Mali. On a side note, why they would need to get up almost 4 hours early is beyond me. I don't know when they sleep!

The only other time I've lived in a country where Ramadan was widely observed was in Mali. However, I don't remember the routines changing as drastically as here. I suppose they got up earlier, but I remember hearing women preparing breakfast at horribly early hours all year long. And there certainly wasn't any drumming at 2 a.m. to wake the village up. Perhaps since rural life tends to wake and sleep according to the sun anyway, the month of Ramadan doesn't alter the schedule as much.

Other than hearing the mosque announcements more often, the drumming and a slight disruption to our evening routine, it has affected us very little. Most of the restaurants are still open for lunch, school is in session, etc. My mother will likely remember her experience in Mali riding the bus back from Mopti when the bus driver didn't want to stop for lunch because everyone on the bus was fasting. I became a typically rude American and demanded that we stop, pointing out that not everyone on the bus was Muslim. If I remember correctly it took some convincing though, and it was at a point in my experience when my tolerance level was at a low point. And plus, we were hungry! My husband will attest to the fact that I become quite crabby when I'm hungry. In any case, I suppose that might happen here as well. I don't know. I won't be taking any long bus rides any time soon.

Eid ul-Fitr marks the end of the month of Ramadan, which will happen in mid-October. This is a very important holiday when everyone who is able will go to their home villages to be with their families. The holiday is celebrated with festivities and lots of eating and drinking throughout the day. It's like Christmas and Thanksgiving rolled into one. From what I hear Jakarta will become like a ghost town. In some ways it would be a good time to be here. The streets will be empty and the town quiet. This year we won't be here though. We are escaping with J's parents (who arrive in only 6 days!) to the mostly Hindu island of Bali.

I really enjoyed this holiday while living in Mali. Everyone was joyful throughout the day, there was lots of music and conversation and good food. I roamed throughout my village visiting my friends and eating with them. Everyone donned their best outfits and gifts were shared. There was a big celebration with drumming, kora playing (similar to a guitar), and dancing. People from the surrounding small villages and compounds came for the celebration. I know that our Indonesian friends are looking forward to this holiday just as our Malian friends did.

I don't know how much blogging I'll be doing during the coming month. As I mentioned, J's parents arrive next Saturday and we'll be in Bali for 10 days of their stay. I imagine we'll be pretty busy so I'm not sure I'll be posting too much before November (not that I've been blogging all that much lately anyway...).